12 of JB’s most authentic old-school kopitiams to visit for good food and nostalgic vibes

One of Johor Bahru’s biggest draws is nostalgia. Our mission objectives may be hunting cheap-and-good food and massages, but the yearning for a simpler, happier past still hums in the subconscious. It’s a blessing for Singaporeans that older sibling Malaysia next door is a window to “the way we were”.
There isn’t the sort of Melaka- level conservation push in this basic border town of few museums but the surfeit of both physical and political space here allows for plenty of pockets of authenticity.
In the absence of museums, kopitiams (literally “coffee shops” in a Malay-Hokkien mashup) are the preserves of the good ol’ days. Many, aware of their role, proudly proffer their credentials with murals, curios and “About Us” webpages (particularly the new wave of Nanyang kopitiams celebrating our heritage).
We’ve rated 12 notable heritage kopitiams on four criteria. The first two, “kopi” and “food”, are straightforward. “Ambience” covers the comfort and cleanliness of the interior and surrounding area. Finally, we’re going with “ahpek-ticity”, a nod to ah peks (literally “old uncle” in Hokkien), which refers to gritty authenticity, whether there are genuine old artefacts and if old-timers still frequent the shop.
1. Hua Mui
This JB institution is the sort of “muhibbah” (Malay for “goodwill”) kopitiam catering to all ethnicities and is becoming increasingly rare. There’s laksa, mee mamak, sandwiches and, of course, their iconic Hainanese chicken chop.
Founded in 1946, Hua Mui was a favourite of British colonial civil servants working on Bukit Timbalan nearby. These days, well-heeled tourists outnumber ah peks, so points off for “ahpek-ticity” in the rubric. It started expanding in 2007 and now has four other branches.
Kopi: 9/10 Food: 7/10 Ambience: 9/10
Ahpek-ticity: 5/10
Overall: 7.5/10
131 Jalan Trus, Bandar Johor Bahru, 80000 Johor Bahru. Opens from 8am to 5pm and closes on public holidays.
2. Kin Hua
Nearby Hua Mui is its no-frills counterpoint in Kin Hua, a popular breakfast spot among locals for its kopi and half-boiled kampung eggs (in a saucer, naturally). Grab-and-go ready nasi lemak and mee siam packets await office workers in a hurry, and seating is limited in this accessible but small corner kopitiam facing famed bakery Hiap Joo.
Kopi: 8/10 Food: 6/10 Ambience: 7/10
Ahpek-ticity: 7/10
Overall: 7/10
8 Jalan Trus, Bandar Johor Bahru, 80000 Johor Bahru. Opens from 5.30am to 5pm and closes on Tuesdays.
3. Seng Huat
This old eatery, now dominated by a single stall, is a wonderful example of a rongshu xia kopitiam beloved by Malaysians. Rongshu xia (RSX in short) translates to “beneath a banyan tree” and has come to encompass all trees – in this case, an evergreen rambutan.
Located at the foot of Jalan Kebun Teh Lama, Seng Huat is close to downtown but away from other built-up areas and has limited parking. Savvy locals and Singaporeans, however, still head here for the famed RSX Fish Noodles which serves sea bass.
Kopi: 6/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 10/10
Ahpek-ticity: 7/10
Overall: 7.75/10
Jalan Kebun Teh Lama, Larkin, 80300 Johor Bahru. Opens from 7.30am to 5pm and closes on Sundays.
4. Kedai Kopi Gao Deng
This delightful enclave of kopitiams and old shops on Jalan Kilang Nenas (“pineapple factory road”) once served Lee Pineapple workers before the factory closed last December – the business founded by Singapore’s Lee Kong Chian in 1931 is moving on to other interests.
Thankfully, the kopitiams still thrive, and the vibe can’t be beaten. Interestingly, the area is off most bloggers’ radars although YouTubers are clued into the vibe – shoutout to Singaporean channel HongIsBored who recently swung by here.
Kedai Kopi Gao Deng positively buzzes during breakfast. A Hakka stall serves up abacus seeds and one of JB’s best lei cha (a vegetarian rice bowl served with a bright green basil soup). There’s also a youtiao stall that sells out by 9am (call 018-971-2668 for reservations).
Kopi: 6/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10
Ahpek-ticity: 8/10
Overall: 7.5/10
1 and 2 Jalan Kilang Nenas, Taman Sutera Utama, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Opens from 5.30am to 5pm on Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays, extending to 6.55pm on Wednesdays and weekends, and closes on Thursdays.
5. Kopitiam DS
Just down the row from Gao Deng is the larger Kopitiam DS with great coffee. The toast and eggs are much loved and there’s also good roast meat, char kway teow and roti canai.
Kopi: 7/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 7/10
Ahpek-ticity: 8/10
Overall: 7.5/10
12, 13,14 Jalan Kilang Nenas, Taman Sutera Utama, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Opens from 6am to 11pm daily.
6. Lar Kopi
Part of a new wave of modern Nanyang kopitiams with curated nostalgic decor, Lar Kopi’s coffee is outstanding and extremely popular among locals. In true muhibbah kopitiam tradition, Lar Kopi’s offerings include lei cha, roti canai and mee siam. The peanut porridge is exceptional. Take note though – it’s a challenge to access in congested Nusa Bestari.
Kopi: 10/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 8/10
Ahpek-ticity: 5/10
Overall: 8/10
2 Jalan Putra 1, Taman Tan Sri Yaacob, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Opens from 7.30am to 4.30pm and closes on Monday.
7. Wee Hoi
This stubbornly old-school Gelang Patah fixture has changed little in its 80-plus years, and that’s part of its appeal. Wee Hoi recently took over the neighbouring shop but patrons still crowd the original, rustic space. Some old-time regulars grumble that the kopi quality has dipped recently but still they return.
Wee Hoi is an exemplar of gotong royong (communal spirit) that old fogies lament is fading in Malaysia and Singapore. Outside food is not just allowed but welcomed here, so go ahead and order chicken rice from the restaurant opposite or curry yong taufu from around the corner. Regulars are also happy to share their table and food tips.
It is also one of a few pick-up points for Gelang Patah’s legendary homemade paus; they sell out within minutes of delivery around 12.30pm, so early birds chope (reserve) or call ahead.
Kopi: 6/10 Food: 6/10 Ambience: 5/10
Ahpek-ticity: 9/10
Overall: 6.5/10
6 Jalan Kacang Panjang, Gelang Patah, 81550 Gelang Patah, Johor. Opens from 6am to 5pm and closes on Thursday.
8. Sunshine Kopitiam
The thick-sliced toast here has long inspired locals to make long morning drives from across town to JB’s northeast, way past Ikea. Sunshine used to occupy a huge industrial estate-style canteen before moving down the road in December 2019 to a smaller space so some old-world charm has been lost. The kopi and food are still worth the journey, thankfully.
Kopi: 8/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 6/10
Ahpek-ticity: 4/10
Overall: 6.75/10
1 Jalan Beladau 19, Taman Puteri Wangsa, 81800 Ulu Tiram, Johor. Opens from 7am to 4pm and closes on Wednesday.
9. Oriental Kopi@Johor Jaya
Oriental Kopi’s coffee and food, particularly its famed egg tarts, are exceptional. So much so that long, snaking queues can be seen outside its three JB mall outlets in Mid Valley Southkey, JBCC and Aeon Tebrau. Started in Selangor just three years ago, the nationwide chain will go international soon with an outlet in Singapore, its 15th in total.
Their Johor Jaya branch, the only one in JB not in a mall, is your best bet at beating the queues. Needless to say, it’s a curated experience that’s far from gritty.
Kopi: 10/10 Food: 10/10 Ambience: 8/10
Ahpek-ticity: 2/10
Overall: 7.5/10
30 Jalan Dedap 22, Taman Johor Jaya, 81100 Johor Bahru. Opens from 7.30am to 8.30pm.
10. Tai Chiang
Hidden away in a back row of shophouses is the gem of north JB, specifically in Saleng between Senai and Kulai. Tai Chiang’s coffee, from beans personally roasted by the owner and strained old-school style through a “sock”, makes a strong claim to be JB’s best while the toast and kaya are renowned.
Many diners order their char kway teow from an outside stall before getting a table. The kopitiam has been around since 1970 and recently tidied up its interior. It faces west, making the outdoor tables a lovely breakfast spot.
Kopi: 10/10 Food: 7/10 Ambience: 7/10
Ahpek-ticity: 9/10
Overall: 8.25/10
7 Jalan Jelawat, Taman Sri Saleng, 81400 Kulai, Johor. Opens from 7am to 2pm and closes on Tuesdays.
11. Min Kee
In the heart of old Senai, near the former main artery out of JB before the North-South Highway took over, Min Kee stands out in a row of several old kopitiams. Foodies have been coming here for decades; some proclaim the laksa to be among Malaysia’s best.
Get a table inside and be willing to share with fellow diners as the outdoor tables bake in the morning sun despite the blinds (or go really early to avoid the crowds and sun).
11-2 Jalan Senai 10, Lorong, 1, Kampung Baru Senai, 81400 Senai, Johor. Opens from 5am to 2pm and closes on Wednesdays.
Kopi: 7/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 3/10
Ahpek-ticity: 8/10
Overall: 6.75/10
12. Kim Wah
Sitting right on Skudai Highway, 100m from Min Kee, is the landmark kopitiam Kim Wah. The kopi is of the lighter white coffee variety and decent, as is the char kway teow stall just outside, but the chief reason to visit this honourable mention is nostalgia.
The interior of Kim Wah is wonderfully make-do Malaysian. The kitchen is partly under a makeshift mezzanine, resulting in a doorway with 1.75m clearance (including the Chinese New Year banner still hanging over). On a wall is the remains of a booth providing bench seating for a table. The regulars complete the tableau for maximum ahpek-ticity.
Kopi: 5/10 Food: 4/10 Ambience: 4/10
Ahpek-ticity: 10/10
Overall: 5.75/10
1 Jalan Senai 10, Kampung Baru Senai, 81400 Senai, Johor. Opens from 6.30am to 7.30pm daily.